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Greener Earth Blog

Easy Composting for the Beginner!

Posted by William on

Hardly anything feeds garden plants better than rich, organic compost. So why not make your own! It’s easier than most people think and will save you the high cost of purchasing it from the garden store.


A quick list of starting materials…

  • Grass clippings, plants, leaves and branches from the yard. Do not compost any plants infected with disease. Also note that very thick, highly glossy leaves (like those from Rhododendrons) take much longer to compost.
  • Fruit and vegetable scraps
  • Coffee grounds
  • Egg and nut shells
  • Straw or hay


It is best to stay away from trying to compost meats, fish and dairy as they will smell and can attract undesirable pests.


Shredding, grinding or chopping your material before adding to the composting pile will quicken the process. If your pile does not contain about 1/3 grass clippings you may want to add a nitrogen based fertilizer to your mix to speed up the process. Blood meal and/or manure are also good nitrogen-rich amendments.


If at all possible, pick a well protected spot for your pile that is out of direct sunlight. Ultimately your developing compost will need to be slightly moist at all times to properly decay. Too much water, or too little will stop the process. A light watering from time to time if in a sunny spot or drier climate may be necessary.


The compaction of all these organic materials when they are piled on one another will generate some heat. When the center of your composting pile cools, it signals the need for turning it over and mixing. A simple pitchfork works best for this practice as it shreds materials while you mix. Generally, a pile should be mixed anywhere from every 3 days to bi-weekly. The more it’s churned the faster the process will go! So make sure your composting pile is in an accessible spot. The compost enclosure should be well ventilated whether it is handmade or store bought.


Which brings us to your enclosure! The easiest thing might be to invest in a store bought compost bin or tumbler. These are specially designed to hold your materials while providing adequate air circulation. The tumblers are generally constructed off of the ground on a swivel – which makes turning your mix as effortless as possible! However, many people prefer to build their own enclosure. Wooden pallets make great enclosure walls and are an economical option. Be sure to top it off with a water proof tarp to keep out excess moisture.


Remember, when it comes to getting started with composting – keep it simple. As you get the hang of it, you will be able to add more materials and create more compost. Before you know it, you’ll have less waste, healthier gardens and hopefully, more change in your pocket!


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Xeriscaping and Drought Tolerant Plants

Posted by William on

According to the Merriam Webster Dictionary, Xeriscaping is a landscaping method developed especially for arid and semiarid climates that utilizes water-conserving techniques. Many gardeners have chosen to utilize this practice in more temperate regions as well, since drought tolerant plants need less maintenance and can be left on their own for longer periods of time.


All plants need regular watering while first being established. But after a good root system has developed, plants suitable for xeriscaping can go for sustained periods without water and here’s why….


Many prairie and meadow plants have very deep roots that can access moisture deep within the earth. These types of roots evolved from centuries of wind-whipped, sun scorching summers on the high plains. They also aided in keeping the plant viable underground as fires scorched the open prairies. Cone Flowers, Coreopsis, Rudbeckia, Asters and many ornamental grasses such as Blue Sedge, Blue Stem, and Zebra Grasses remain colorful and healthy during extreme summer conditions.


Succulents are another great option for xeriscaping. These plants are related to cactus and store water within their leaves, giving them their ‘succulent’ or ‘juicy’ appearance! The most popular succulents are ornamental sedums. Many of which can be tucked into crevices, rock gardens, or planted in mass as a drought tolerant groundcover.


Lawn substitutes need less water than turf and are options for low traffic areas. There are a host of drought tolerant stepable groundcovers that are perfect for in between pavers, slopes, or hard to reach areas of the landscape. Blue Moneywort, certain Wormwoods, Thyme, and Blue Star Creeper are good examples that will add something unique to your landscape and require minimal maintenance!


Even low-growing, spreading shrubs like Blue Rug Juniper and Cotoneaster act as drought tolerant groundcovers in the landscape. And while they cannot survive foot traffic, they will be spill wonderfully over a retaining wall or hillside and need little attention after establishment.


There is little doubt as to why xeriscaping is increasing in popularity. It’s a win-win-win scenario, planting an eco-friendly landscape that will ultimately save you time and labor!


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Best Shade Trees & Why We Love Them

Posted by William on

Properly placed shade trees provide a multitude of benefits. Including reducing air conditioning costs, protecting deck-wood from sun exposure, and best of all they may even improve property value!  But before you go shopping for the right one, consider a few basic factors…


Don’t necessarily go for the super fast growers. Weeping Willows and Silver Maples grow quickly, but this renders their wood weak and often susceptible to pests.


Will your new tree have profuse flowers or seeds that will blanket your area, fill your gutters, and stain your patio? If so, you may need to seek a different kind of tree that won’t leave you in the shade with a headache.



Large Shade Trees to Love…


The Burr Oak could be considered the ‘Grand Daddy’ of all shade trees! Wide spread branches can stretch up to 100’ feet and exude an imposing presence. They need sun and space, and most of all they need time. You may have to wait decades to see this slow growing, majestic beauty radiate its magnificence the way they did when they graced open prairies in years past.  But consider planting one anyway. Future generations of humans and wildlife will thank you!


Red Oaks are a bit smaller and grow more quickly than Burr Oaks. Brilliant fall foliage and its ability to tolerate poor conditions make it a dynamic shade tree for urban areas.


Sugar Maples are slower growing than many other maples, but will get very large up to 100’ tall. They also have strong wood and gorgeous fall color, for a stable and attractive addition to your yard.


Silver Lindens tolerance for pollution makes it a good choice for city dwellers. The leaves have a silver sheen on the underside that gives them a beautiful character all their own.



Medium Shade Trees to Love…


The Katsura Tree is a unique and underutilized tree. Constantly changing foliage will supply your landscape with gorgeous color and interest throughout the growing season.


Red Buds are a popular and native species that bloom brightly in spring. They usually grow quickly and do rather well close to a house or deck. Shedding flowers may make a temporary small mess early on, but its heart shaped leaves will provide a delicate dappled shade all summer long.


Green Ash can be found nearly everywhere in the continental Untied States. Fast growing and hardy, this is a suburban yard staple and a golden beauty come autumn.


Most Dogwoods grow to 25’ with a variety of blooming colors and are popular choices for smaller spaces. The Giant Dogwood can grow to 40’ if you desire something a little larger. These provide white blooms in spring followed by red and black berries in fall.



Make sure to check your local hardiness zone before falling in love with a shade tree. Once planted, proper fertilization and minimal pruning will also help your new landscape addition thrive.


Eventually, there will be little to do but sit back under its refreshing canopy and enjoy!

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All You Need for Beauteous Butterfly Gardens!

Posted by William on

Creating butterfly habitats is a growing practice for many gardeners. The benefits include a garden with beautiful and diverse plants. As well as, giving our gorgeous insect pollinators a wonderful place to live and feel safe.

Like the rest of us, butterflies need three basic elements to survive… food, water and shelter.

Butterfly feeders, similar to hummingbird feeders can be bought and filled with nectar, but most gardeners choose to use a variety of plants to attract them. And don’t forget the caterpillars! Certain caterpillars will only eat off of specific host plants. For instance, the Monarch caterpillar solely eats milkweed. While the Painted Lady caterpillar dines only on thistle, hollyhock and sunflowers. Both these species eat from many more plant varieties when adult butterflies.

The good news is butterfly gardening doesn’t have to get that complicated. If you choose to keep it simple, here is a list of some good ‘general’ butterfly-friendly plants to consider…
Asters, Black Eyed Susan, Butterfly Weed, Butterfly Bush, Bergamot (Bee Balm), Cardinal Flowers, Clovers, Golden Rod, Milkweeds, Purple Coneflowers, Sunflowers, and Zinnias to name a few.

All that flying around and sweet nectar can make a butterfly thirsty! Providing water is important for the well-being of your garden guests. Creating small mud puddles is an easy way to provide water. Filling a plant saucer with sand and water is also a good way to provide a place to drink and helps the butterflies get the salts they need.

Finally, you will need to provide shelter from the elements. Butterfly houses can be purchased at most garden centers and provide safe havens to get out of a rain storm or seek shade from the heat. When the weather is cold, placing stones in a sunny spot is a wonderful way for the insects to sit and warm themselves.

The delicate wings of the butterfly are no match for gusty winds. Try and build your habitat in a spot that will be protected from the wind, or build a windbreak using fencing or trellises. Of course planting butterfly-friendly shrubs and trees as a windbreak is the best of both worlds! Here is a short list of some great options… Spirea, Rhododendrons and Azaleas, Privets, Sumac, Weigela, and Potentilla.

Creating butterfly gardens is exciting and fun. If you plant it – they will come!

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Getting Creative with Container Gardening!

Posted by William on

Nothing spruces up an otherwise dreary deck or patio like potted plants! The world of container gardening is especially exciting because not only do you transform your outdoor spaces, but you can create a different theme each year! For instance, one spring you might decide to go tropical(link) and use plants like dieffenbachia, palms and crotons for a lush jungle effect. The next year, you might go all out with annuals and perennials that flower profusely all season long.


You can even use small shrubs like spruce and junipers in symmetry to flank an entryway for a grand and formal appearance. Or… create a small herb garden for fresh spices grown right at home!


The possibilities are endless when it comes to container gardening. But, there are some basic guidelines to get the most out of your potted oasis no matter what theme you choose.


Keep in mind that you don’t always need to use the standard terra cotta pot. Although they are nice, there are SO many other varieties to choose from. And if you don’t want to break the bank, use things from around the home for a truly eclectic look and feel…


  • -Old soup or coffee cans
  • -An old pair of rubber garden shoes or boots
  • -Old watering cans
  • -Jars and vases
  • -Your kids old wagon they never use anymore
  • -Wheelbarrows
  • -Galvanized tubs
  • -Wooden boxes or crates (You can even paint these for a truly unique and ‘you’ effect!)


Basically anything that will hold a plant and some soil should work. Just be sure there is proper drainage by drilling some holes. When you are dealing with plastic and other non-breathable material, the more drainage holes the better!


Select proper plants that will be able to handle the environment in which they will live in regards to sun and wind conditions. Generally, plants that sit higher on shelves or hang will dry out more quickly. Daily watering might be required during the hottest months.


Fertilizing isn’t just for your yard. In fact, potted plants need more fertilization because they can’t pull any natural nutrients from the earth. If you use a synthetic form like Miracle Gro, make sure that you continue it on a regular basis throughout the year. You may choose to use organic compost or fertilizer which will require fewer applications and is best for plants that you may eventually eat – like herbs.


Adding potted plants on your deck or patio will bring about beauty and serenity. And getting creative with your containers makes that part of your gardening almost as exciting as the plants themselves!


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